Basic Things of Spinning, Weaving, Dyeing and Garments

Basic of Textile Engineering! Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing, Garment or Apparel are the Parent sections of the Textile Mill. In several of Textile Thesis published in different magazine are found the contemporary articles about the modern mechanism and articles about Spinning, Weaving, Dyeing and Garments Technology. But sometime we need to know about the fundamentals of Textile. Very few of the thesis and articles contain it. So I will try my best to provide you the basic of Textile. And of course I will include everything about Textile successively. So let me start now………
Textile Fibre In Textile industry we have to work with fibre and fibre related components. That means without fibre it’s not possible to make a yarn. If yarn is not possible, making fabric and garments are impossible. So it is seen that Fibre is very important. First of all I will give you some basic knowledge about Textile Fibre. Later… I will tell you elaborately in the certain post that is collected from the various thesis and magazine. Fibres are used to production of Yarn and Fabric called Textile Fibres.
It is essential to know that a Textile Fibre must have some definite characteristics.
These are- 1. Minimum Length. It should be 100 times of long than its diameter. 2. Strength 3. Elongation and Elasticity 4. Moisture absorbency 5. Tendency to be twisted. 6. Fibre Fineness.
Classification of Textile Fibre: 1. Natural Fibre 2. Man-made Fibre Natural Fibre are derived from a) Tree i,e, Seed, Leaf, Bast Fibres b) Animal i,e, Silk, Wool c) Mineral i,e, Asbestos d) Metal Fibre i,e, Gold, Silver Mane-made Fibre are derived from a) Regenerated–Cellulose Base, Protein Base, Mineral Base. b) Synthetic—Organic Base (Polyamide, Polyester, Thermoplastic, Hydrocarbons), Inorganic Base

8 Factors That Affect The Print Paste Passing Throught The Screen Printing Screen

In the screen printing method some factors is influenced by the amount of print paste that are passing through the Printing screen. So stepwise I am mentioning the factors –

• The mesh (thread/inch) or Raster (thread/cm) of the screen: The more mesh a screen will have, the more print paste will be passed.

• The fraction of open area in the screens: The more open area a screen has, the more print paste will be passed over the screen.

• The hardness or X-section of Squeeze blade: It’s better to has harder screen to pass the print paste smoothly.

• The hardness of the printing table: Hardness of the printing table affects the print paste to pass smoothly.

• The viscosity of the print paste: If the viscosity of the print paste is high, it will pass over the screen comparatively slow.

• The number of squeeze strokes: If the number of Squeeze is more, the printing paste will pass slowly.

• The squeeze angle and pressure: More and pressure enhance the speed of print paste.

• The speed of the squeeze strokes: Higher squeeze stroke’s speed means, higher amount of print paste to pass.

There are some other factors still exist which affects the Print Paste to pass over the printing screen.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Hand Screen Printing In Textile Industry

Though, the hand screen printing is still a popular printing system in our Textile Industry; there are still some advantages and disadvantages of hand screen printing. Here I will give you the basic and most recommended features of the both screen printing procedures.

Advantages of Hand Screen Printing:

There are several advantages of Hand Screen Printing that we must have to know. These are -

• Less Investment Cost: As there is no machine required in hand screen printing and it is possible to print in a shorter space; the total investment in hand screen printing is comparatively lower than other screen printing system.

• No Risk: No heavier instrument or machine tools are used in hand screen printing. So, there is no risk.

• Multi-color Design Can be Printed: In hand screen printing procedures various colors can be used effectively.

• Less Floor Space Is Required: As no heavier and bigger machines and related tools are used, the hand screen printing requires lower space to install.

• Suitable For Small Scale Production: If you want to install a screen printing factory for you local business, you can choose the hand screen printing at the initial stage as it requires lower cost or investment.

Disadvantages of Hand Screen Printing:

Besides the advantages of hand screen printing; we have to know about the disadvantages of Hand Screen Printing too. Because it is needed for developing the process or solving any problems occurred during installation.

• Slow Production Rate: As no machine is used and all of the process are done by manually; the production rate becomes lower than other printing process.

• Small Scale Production: If you want to own a big screen printing factory or if you have some bigger plan in future; the hand screen printing is not for you. Due to some reason this kind of printing process provides you lesser production rate.

• Labor Intensive Process: A labor has to work manually and all of the process of the hand screen printing is done by the hands. So it needs more time to produce a product.

• Fastness Properties Are Average: As all of the process is done manually, the fastness properties of the printed fabric is not well.

• Difficult to maintain even penetration and print paste.

• Skilled Man-Power is required.

Textile Classes According To It’s Manufacturing Processing Methods

The whole textile processing; from the fibre to garment are classified in several segments. The classes are 1. Spinning 2. Weaving or Knitting 3. Dyeing or Printing 4. Finishing 5. Garments or Apparels.

The short descriptions of Textile Classes:

Spinning:

It is very initial process amongst the Textile Classes. In spinning section fibre are processed in order to make yarn. Several spinning machines are used here to make a fibre to yarn completely.

Weaving or Knitting:

Two types of fabric are produced in Textile. One is Woven Fabric, another is Knit Fabric. Woven fabric is produced by looms with the interlacement of warp and weft yarns. In knitting section the knit fabric are produced with the loops of yarns. Loops of yarns are bound together by passing one series of loop through other series of loops and form the fabric. Textile Knitting follows some knit structure.

Dyeing or Printing:

Textile Dyeing is a process where the fabric is dyed by different dyestuff mixing with water and other chemicals in a certain temperature. It is the main part of textile classes in the basis of textile trade issue. On the other hand, Printing is done by following a pre-determined design and printing paste is used here. Thickener or gum or printing rubber gum are used to fix the print paste on the fabric according to design.

Finishing:

Finishing is one of the important classes of textiles, where all of the textile processes holds the good appearance. Mercerization, Calendaring and done here.

Garments or Apparels:

After getting a woven or knit fabric it is the time to make the fabric to be wearable. Garments section takes the responsibility to do this. In apparel section the fabric is cut according to marker, pattern and then sewed.

What is Yarn Geometry, Classification & Designation

Basic of Textile Engineering! Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing, Garment or Apparel are the Parent sections of the Textile Mill. In several of Textile Thesis published in different magazine are found the contemporary articles about the modern mechanism and articles about Spinning, Weaving, Dyeing and Garments Technology. But sometime we need to know about the fundamentals of Textile. Very few of the thesis and articles contain it. So I will try my best to provide you the basic of Textile. And of course I will include everything about Textile successively. So let me start now………

Textile Fibre In Textile industry we have to work with fibre and fibre related components. That means without fibre it’s not possible to make a yarn. If yarn is not possible, making fabric and garments are impossible. So it is seen that Fibre is very important. First of all I will give you some basic knowledge about Textile Fibre. Later… I will tell you elaborately in the certain post that is collected from the various thesis and magazine. Fibres are used to production of Yarn and Fabric called Textile Fibres.

It is essential to know that a Textile Fibre must have some definite characteristics.

These are- 1. Minimum Length. It should be 100 times of long than its diameter. 2. Strength 3. Elongation and Elasticity 4. Moisture absorbency 5. Tendency to be twisted. 6. Fibre Fineness.

Classification of Textile Fibre: 1. Natural Fibre 2. Man-made Fibre Natural Fibre are derived from a) Tree i,e, Seed, Leaf, Bast Fibres b) Animal i,e, Silk, Wool c) Mineral i,e, Asbestos d) Metal Fibre i,e, Gold, Silver Mane-made Fibre are derived from a) Regenerated–Cellulose Base, Protein Base, Mineral Base. b) Synthetic—Organic Base (Polyamide, Polyester, Thermoplastic, Hydrocarbons), Inorganic Base

Download The Textile Printing PDF Ebook

This is the best e-book on Textile Printing I have ever found on internet. This printing e-book is written by the “Society of Dyers & Colorist” and edited by Leslie W C Miles who is the former lecturer of the Dept

Textiles of University of Manchester, UK. This free e-book focused on Traditional Method of Textile Printing like Engrave roller method, Surface Printing Method etc.

It also described the most common Screen Printing, Transfer Printing, Carpet and Yarn Printing, Discharge, Resist and Special Styles, The production and properties of Printing paste, Fixation and after-treatment processes, the use of digital system in Textile Printing with lots of examples, and images.

Just click to download the Textile Printing Ebook below:

Download Free Textile Printing Ebook

Dyeing & Printing || Differences Between Dyeing And Printing

Dyeing and printing are the two major wet processing techniques for coloration of fabric. In the dyeing process; only one color is produced but in the printing process; various types of colored design are produced on the fabric surface. Dyeing is done on grey fabric but printing could be done on both pre-treated fabric and colored fabric.

Difference Between Dyeing And Printing: There is a lot of difference between dyeing and printing process. Here, I have mentioned some major difference between dyeing and printing.

Dyeing	Printing
1. By the dyeing process, dyes are applied on the whole fabric equally.	1. By the printing process, dyes are applied on the fabric localizedly to produce desired design.
2. Fabric, yarn and fibers are dyed by dyeing.	2. Generally printing is done on fabric.
3. In a dyeing process, dyes are applied on the both sides of the fabric.	3. Dyes are applied on olnly one side of the fabric.
4. No precise design is required for dyeing.	4. Design is must for printing.
5. In a dyeing process, only one dye is used.	5. In a printing process, one or more dye is used.
6. Precise temperature is required for dyeing.	6. In printing, it is not necessary to maintain precise temperature.
7. Thickener is not required for dyeing.	7. Thickener is must for printing paste preparation.
8. The density of dye solution is less than the density of printing paste.	8. In printing, the density of printing paste is higher than dye solution density.
9. Huge amount of water is required for dyeing.	9. Small amount of water is required for printing.
10. Steaming or curing is not necessary for dyeing.	10. Steaming or curing is must for printing to fix the dyes or pigments on the surface of the fabric.
11. Dyeing is comparatively cheaper than printing.	11. Printing is costly than dyeing.
12. Dyed fabrics are soft.	12. Printed fabrics are hard and harsh.

Printing Process Flow Chart Of 100% Synthetic Fabric

Synthetic fabric printing is easier than natural fabric printing. We know that, printing flow chart depends on the characteristics of fiber. In cotton printing, it requires to pre-treat the fabric before printing but in case of synthetic fabric it not essential to pre-treat the fabric because synthetic fabric does not contain impurities like natural fiber.

Printing Process Flow Chart Of 100% Synthetic Fabric: There are various types of synthetic fiber. Printing process for all the fiber is not same. The printing process of nylon, polyester or acrylic fiber varies from one from another. It also depends on the dyes and pigment types. Anyhow, I have written about the basic printing process flow chart for 100% synthetic fabric.

Fabric from weaving section

↓

Stitching

↓

Washing

↓

Jet Dyeing

↓

Stentering

↓

Printing

↓

Polymerizing

↓

Washing

↓

Stentering

↓

Calendaring

↓

Folding or Rolling

↓

Packing

Synthetic fibers are produced from the polymerization of different monomer. After printing, finishing is done for add some properties. So, it requires to aware about the printing sequence.

So, print your synthetic fabric by suitable dyes.

Process Flow Of Printing Process For 100% Cotton Fabric

Printing is a method of wet processing technology. By the printing process; various types of decorative and attractive designs are produced on the surface of the fabric.

Process Flow Of Printing Process For 100% Cotton Fabric: Cotton printing is the most used process. The printing flow chart depends on the fiber types. Natural fiber such as- cotton, wool and silk contains various types of impurities for this reason it is required to remove the impurities before dyeing and printing process. This process is known as pre-treatment process. After printing, finishing process is carried out for improve the out looking of the printed fabric. Here, I have written about the printing process of 100% cotton.

Inspection of grey cloth

↓

Stitching

↓

Shearing or Cropping

↓

Singeing

↓

Desizing

↓

Washing

↓

Scouring

↓

Bleaching

↓

Washing

↓

Stentering

↓

Printing

↓

Steaming

↓

Washing

↓

Calendaring

↓

Inspection

↓

Folding or Rolling

↓

Packing

It is noted that, above flow chart is for non mercerized fabric. For mercerized fabric; mercerizing, neutralizing and washing is done between washing and stentering process. That means it is done after scouring and bleaching process.

So, if we want to print a cotton fabric we have to follow the above process sequence.

Printing Process Flow Of Plastic Solution | High-Density Printing Process

Printing is done on the textile materials, plastic, paperboard, building wall and other place, where has some scope of printing. But all printing methods are not same. The printing style and printing process is different from one to another depending on the material types.



Here, I have given a printing process flow of plastic solution with their recipe.

Recipe: This is a sample printing recipe.

High-density paste------------100%

Sequence of printing with plastic solution: Following is the process sequence of plastic solution. By this process high density paste is apply on the fabric.

Fabric pre-treatment

↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

High-density paste apply by screen

↓

Curing at 160ºc (belt speed 3m/min)

↓

Delivery

So, print your fabric with plastic solution as flock printing, foil printing, pigment printing or discharge printing.

Sequence Of Discharge Printing Process On Cotton | Discharge Printing Style

Printing is done by direct or discharge style. Among all of the style; white discharge and color discharge style is most common. Discharge means to remove specific colored area by another color or reducing it by bleaching agent.

Discharge printing is called extract printing. By this printing process, color is destroyed by one or multiple color. By this process pigment in the T-Shirt is removed chemically and replace it by another color. Discharge printing is done on 100% cotton. Synthetic or blended fabrics are not suitable for discharge printing. Others think is that, the dyed fabrics dyes should be dischargeable during printing process.



Here, I have given a printing process of discharge printing with recipe.

Recipe:  This is a sample recipe for discharge printing.

Discharge rubber paste------------90%

Discharge/ RNS powder-----------49%

Sequence of Discharge Printing Process: Discharge printing is done as the following way.

Fabric preparation

                                                ↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Apply printing paste with the help of screen

↓

Curing at 190ºc (belt speed 3m/min)

↓

Delivery

Various types of colored design can be produced by this discharge printing process. But we should be careful during discharge printing process. Otherwise, shade of the original fabric could be destroyed unwontedly.

Process Flow Of Emboss Printing | Pub Printing Process

Emboss printing is not as available as pigment printing, foil printing, flock printing or any others dyes printing. It is specially done for logo making or others decorative purpose. In this printing process, printing is done by embossing the printing paste on the textile materials.



Here, I have given a process sequence of emboss printing or pub printing with a sample recipe.

Recipe: This is a sample recipe for emboss printing process.

Rubber paste------------49%

Pub / Emboss-----------49%

Fixer----------------------2%

Process Flow of Emboss Printing/Pub Printing: Printing is done as the following sequence.

 

Fabric pre-treatment

↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Apply printing paste by screen (3times)

↓

Hanging for 15min

↓

Curing at 170ºc (belt speed 3m/min)

↓

Delivery

Emboss printing is mainly done on business card. Various types of glossy design is produced by emboss or pub printing.

Sequence Of Glitter Printing Process On Textile Materials | Fabric Printing

Glitter is a transfer printing process. By this printing process, different types of decorative designs are produced on T-Shirt, Polo-Shirt Or others garments product. After pre-treatment of the fabric, printing operation is done on the table. Printing glitter paste is applied on the fabric by the screen printing process. After printing, curing is done at high temperature. Curing should be done slowly otherwise it may affect the printing performance.



Here, I have given a glitter printing process flow chart with recipe. I think it will help you to test the glitter printing process.

Recipe: This is a sample printing recipe. It will be changed according to the shade of the delivery printed goods.

Rubber paste------------ 70%

Fixer--------------------- 2%

Glitter------------------- 28%

Sequence of Glitter Printing Process on Textile Materials: By the following way, glitter printing is done on the knitted or woven fabrics.

Fabric pre-treatment

↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Glitter paste apply by screen

↓

Hanging for 15min for dry

↓

Curing at 160º c (belt speed 3m/min)

↓

Delivery

Various types of glitter manufacturing companies supply glitter to the printing company. You can also read Foil printing process for more details.

So, choose your glitter as your demand.

Process Flow Of Pigment Printing On Cotton fabric | Binding System

Pigments are mainly synthetic organic materials. It has no affinity to the fabric. For this reason, binder is used for making film on the pigment surface. A 3-dimensional cross linking is produced between fiber and pigment. After drying, curing is done at 150 – 180 degree Celsius for fixing the pigments on the fabric surface. Pigment printing is cheaper than other printing process.



Here, I have given a sequence of pigment printing on the cotton fabric.

Recipe: This is a sample printing recipe. It can be change depending on the color depth.

Thickener------2%

Binder--------8%

Fixer----------2%

Water---------90%

Sequence of Pigment Printing: Pigment printing is carried out as the following way.

 

Fabric Pre-treatment

↓

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen

↓

Curing at 160ºc (belt speed 6.50 m/min)

↓

Delivery

 

Pigment printing process is interesting one. So, print your knit or woven fabrics with pigments and enjoy wearing a pigment printed T-Shirt or Polo-Shirt.

What Is Pigment Printing | Advantages And Disadvantages of Pigment Printing

Pigments are mainly synthetic organic materials. Pigment printing is done to produce attractive design by applying pigment paste on the fabric surface. Pigments are found in particle state and the particle size range should be in the region of 0.1 – 3 microns.

Pigment printing is done with binder system. We know that pigment has no affinity to cotton fabric for this reason binder is required during printing. The binder is a film forming substance made up of long macromolecules which when applied to the textile materials together with the pigment, produce a 3-dimensional networked. The 3-dimensional links are formed during some suitable fixing process, which usually consist of dry heat and change in pH value (<5), bringing about self-cross linking or reaction with suitable cross-linking agent. This cross-linking improves the elasticity and adhesion of the film to the substrate.

Pigment printing has lots of advantages and disadvantages. Following is the advantages and disadvantages of pigment printing.

Advantages of Pigment Printing

1. Pigment can be applied for natural as well as synthetic fibers.


2. Pigment print is an easy task for the printer.


3. Pigment printing is most economical printing process.


4. Pigment printing allows maximum output of goods.


5. Fastness properties are good to average.


6. Well defined design can be produced by pigment printing.

Disadvantages of Pigment Printing

1. Pigment printed textile wears are not comfortable to wear.


2. Pigments are sensitible to crushing during roller printing.


3. Rubbing fastness is medium.


4. Pigments are completely fast to dry cleaning.

So, print your T-Shirt, Polo-shirt or other textile materials with pigment and get various attractive designs.

Process Sequence Of Flock Printing On Cotton Fabric

Flock printing is done by depositing various flocks on the surface of the fabric. Flocks means small finely cut natural or synthetic fibers. This flocks are applied on an adhesive coated surface for impart a decorative or functional characteristics to the surface of the fabric.

Flock printing has great scope to produce various attractive designs. Flock printing is generally done on T-Shirt, jewellery boxes, gift, wallpaper or upholstery.

Here, I have given a process flow of flock printing on cotton fabric.



Recipe: This is a sample recipe for flock printing.

Flock paste-----------------90%

Fixer (Nylon) ---------------10%

And, Flock powder (Synthetic or cotton)

Sequence of flock printing: Flock printing is as the following way.

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Apply flock paste with the help of screen

↓

Flock powder apply with the help of flock gun

↓

Manually dry by hanging for 30min

↓

Curing at 180ºc (belt speed 3 m/min)

↓

Brushing

↓

Delivery

Before flock printing it needs to select the flock for the printing. Size and type of the flock is important one for flock printing.

Process Flow Chart Of Foil Printing With Recipe

Foil printing is a sublimation transfer printing process. Foil printing is done by the help of paper. Foil paper is solid color which is made by buyer requirement. Printing is done in high temperature and pressure. By this printing process man-made and natural both fabric types can be print.



Here, I have given a sequence of foil printing with recipe.

Recipe: It is a sample recipe; this recipe can be changed on the depth of the color and types of dyes use.

Foil paste----------------90%

Fixer---------------------10%

Sequence of foil printing: Foil printing is done as the following sequence.

Fabric preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Foil gun / Foil paste apply by screen

↓

Dry slightly in air temp / Hand dryer

↓

Apply foil paper on the fabric

↓

Heat apply by heat press m/c (150ºc for 5 sec)

↓

Cooling for 4 sec

↓

Foil paper removed by hand

↓

Delivery

Different type of foil printing is done on T-shirt, Polo-Shirt and other knit and woven fabric. During this printing, the printer should select correct printing paper and should be aware about the ink transfer process from the paper to the fabric.

So, print your fabric by foil printing process and produce various attractive designs like rubber printing or crack printing.

Process Flow Chart Of Crack Printing On Cotton Fabric

Crack printing is a printing method to produce attractive design on the fabric surface. Here rubber is used as the printing paste. It is near similar as rubber printing process but additional crack paste is used before applying rubber printing paste by the screen printer on the cotton fabric.



Here, I have given a printing process of cotton fabric with crack printing process. Also, I have given a sample printing recipe.

Printing Recipe:

Rubber-----------------98%

Fixer-------------------2%

And crack paste / clear

Process Flow Chart Of Crack Printing: Following sequence is the crack printing.

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen

↓

Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)

↓

Printing paste apply with the help of screen

↓

Curing at 190ºc (belt speed 2 m/min)

↓

Delivery

Crack printing can be produced on the surface on T-Shirt, Polo-Shirt and other finished knit fabric and woven fabric.

Process Flow Of Rubber Printing On Cotton Fabric

Rubber printing is one of the important printing processes. After apparel manufacturing, printing is done on the surface of the fabric. Here, I have given the process sequence of rubber printing with recipe.



Recipe:

Rubber----------------60%

Clear------------------38%

Fix---------------------2%

Process Flow Of Rubber Printing: Rubber printing is done as the following way in a printing unit.

Table preparation

↓

Fabric plaited on the table

↓

Rubber printing paste apply with the help of screen

↓

Hanging the fabric for 30 min

↓

Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 5 m/min)

↓

Delivery

That’s all about rubber printing.

Jute Fabric Printing With Basic Dyes | Eco Friendly Jute Products

Jute is a natural bast fiber. Jute fiber is spun for producing jute yarn. Various types of jute fabrics are made from jute yarn. We know that, jute fabric is classified as Sacking, Hessian and C.B.C. Jute fabrics are courser than cotton or other fabrics. For this reason it’s using are not so wide as compared to cotton or other fabrics. For this reason different types of attributes are added with jute fabric for make it user friendly. Now a day’s jute dyeing and jute printing becomes popular to the manufacturer.



The printed jute product which is presented here, it is produced in Star Jute Mills Limited which is an enterprise of Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation. They also produced all types of Sacking and Hessian jute products which maintain international quality standard.

Jute printing is the process of producing different types of attractive design to the jute fabric. I have described about the printing classification. Among the entire printing process block printing is popular for jute fabric printing.

Materials for jute fabric printing: During jute fabric printing following materials are used.

• Basic dyes


• Acetic acid


• Starch


• Water


• Block


• Soft surface


• Jute fabric

We know that; basic dyes are usually hydro-chloride or salts of organic bases. Basic dyes are insoluble in water but it can be soluble in alcohol or methylated spirit. Its fastness properties are average to good. This is cheap in price and available in the market.

Jute fabrics are print by the basic dyes. Basic dyes printing are carried out in acidic medium. Jute printing can be run by the following recipe:

Basic dyes                               : 30gm/kg

Acetic acid                              : 50gm/kg

Thickeners (Starch 10%)            : 700gm/kg

Water (+,-)                              : 220gm/kg

This recipe is a sample recipe but this amount could be changed. Anyhow, this recipe is calculated for making 1kg print paste.

Sequence of application: Basic dyes printing is carried out as the following sequence.

Fabric pre-treatment

↓

Printing (Block)

↓

Steaming

↓

Drying

↓

After treatment

This is the basic process flow chart of jute printing with basic dyes. During printing process different caution is follow for avoiding printing faults. Before starting printing we should make a printing paste with standard recipe. Block should place in the right place. For a multiple color printing we have to print one by one by specific block. Printing place should be soft. After printing; steaming should be for fixing the dyes uniformly. Stemming also increase the stability of the printing paste. Drying is must after printing. Sometimes after treatment is carried out.

So, print your jute product with basic dyes and make different types of attractive design to attract the buyer.