Basic Weave Structures For Fabric manufacturing

Weave structures is the design by which fabric is produced. The yarns are used in various ways to produce different weave effects. Different simple and complex fabric design is produced by the weave structures. The loom is set according to the fabric structure. Specific loom is used for producing special types of design. We can say jacquard and dobby which two are used for making special design on the fabric.

Basic Weave Structures for Fabric manufacturing

There are three basic weave structures for fabric manufacturing. They are:

1. Plain Weave


2. Twill Weave


3. Satin Weave or Sateen Weave

On the other hand, there are lots of derivatives of the above basic weave. Followings are the most important weave structures.

• Cut Pile


• Uncut Pile


• Leno


• Jacquard


• Dobby


• Basket Weave


• Rib Weave


• Herringbone Weave


• Oxford Weave


• Double Knit

Now, I like to give a short idea about above weave design.

Plain weave is produced when each weft yarn passes over and under each warp yarn with each row alternatives. It is the simplest form of weave structure.

Twill weave is similar to plain weave, in this the warp yarn skip at regular predetermined intervals creating a diagonal rib in the fabric surface. Twill weave is more flexible than plain weave.

Satin weave is so called when fabric is manufactured by filament yarn like silk or nylon. Flexible fabric is produced by this weave structure. In the other hand, when fabric design is produced by short staple yarns like cotton that is called sateen weave. In satin structure, the face of the fabric consists only the warp on the weft threads giving the fabric a smooth and lustrous surface.

Cut pile is specially used for a carpet fabric where the face of the fabric is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.

Uncut pile is a pile of carpet consisting of loops.

Leno weaves, in this the warp yarns are arranged in pairs. One yarn being twisted the other between picks of the filling yarn.

Jacquard weave is used for producing complex patterns on the fabric. Jacquard loom is used for creating jacquard weave.

Dobby weave is a decorative weave, which is characterized by small design or geometric figures being woven in the fabric structure.

Basket weave is one of the variations of plain weave where fabric has a loose constructions and flat look. It is strong and flexible than basic plain weave.

Rib weave is a basic weave in which rib cord is produced on the fabric. Abrasion and tearing strength of the rib weave is high.

If you want to produce a fine, soft and light weight fabric then you have to consider oxford weave which is a modification of plain weave. It is generally used for apparels.

Double knit is a knit fabric which is produced in circular knitting machine. Double knit fabric has loops on both sides.

So, there are a lots of weave design. The weave design is one of the arts in textile manufacturing. So, try to create new design.

Features Of Pique Weave || Types Of Pique Weave

Pique is a fancy weave. It is used to produce various types of trimmings and ornamented fabrics.

Types Of Pique Weave: Pique weave is classified as the below.

1. Ordinary Pique


2. Loose Back Pique


3. Wadded Loose Back Pique


4. Wadded Fast Back Pique


5. Waved Pique

Features Of Pique Weave: The features of pique weave are given below.

• A typical pique structure consists of a plain face fabric composed of one series of warp and one series of weft threads and a set of back or stitched thread.


• Continuous sunken lines are run horizontally in the cloth.


• One cord per repeat.


• Skip or divided draft is generally used.


• Pique weave is used to produce trimmings and other ornamented products.

That’s all about pique weave.

Properties Of Bed Ford Cord || Types Of Bed Ford Cord

Bed ford cord is a fancy weave. It is an important weave to produce various types of decorative and heavier fabrics.

Types of Bed Ford Cord:

1. Plain Faced Bed Ford Cord


2. Wadded Bed Ford Cord


3. Crepon Bed Ford Cord


4. Bed Ford Cord arranged with alternatives picks


5. Twill Faced Bed Ford Cord

Properties Of Bed Ford Cord:

• The Bedford weaves produce longitudinal warp line in the cloth with fine sunken lines between cords.


• Bed ford cord fabrics are warp faced cloth. Cord effect is seen in face side and not in back side.


• In one repeat, two or more cords are produced.


• To give greater prominence to the cord effect, Wadding and Padding yarns are used.


• Ends and picks are always of even number.


• Pick number in a repeat size is generally 4.


• Cord effect is seen in face side.

Uses of Bed Ford Cord Weave: Following products are produced by bed ford cord weave.

1. Medium weight cotton or spun rayon – Ladies dress wear, sportswear.


2. Heavier qualities like furnishing.


3. Worsted yarn for trouser production.

Properties Of Crepe Weave || Types Of Crepe Weave

Crepe weave is a fancy weave. Crepe yarn is used to make crepe designed fabric. High twisted yarn is called crepe yarn. It has curling properties. Various types of home textile and decorative fabrics are made by this design.

Types of Crepe Weave: Crepe weave is divided into four classes. They are-

1. Crepe on sateen base.


2. Crepe by reversing.


3. Crepe by super imposing.


4. Crepe on a plain weave base.

Properties of Crepe Weave: The characteristics of crepe weave are given below.

• Any kind of weave which will produce a broken irregular appearance on the face of the fabric is known as crepe weave.


• Rough irregular surface are often produced by using special prepared warp and weft yarns which have a high twist factor that causes them to crimp or curl when the woven fabric is being finished. These yarns are known as crepe yarns and generally the fabrics are produced from them are of plain cloth.


• Somewhat similar overall effects can be produced by using ordinary yarns in special weaves which are known as crepe weave.


• Crepe weave is used to produce shirting, decorative purpose, home furnishing, ladies wear etc.

So, main properties of crepe weave are that, crimp or curling is found in the fabric. This type of fabrics is valuable and comparatively costly then other designed fabrics.

Features Of Honey Comb || Types Of Honey Comb

Honey comb is a fancy weave. Various types of decorative fabrics are formed by honey comb.

Types Of Honey Comb: Honey comb is classified by the following two ways. They are-

1. Ordinary Honey Comb


2. Brighton Honey Comb

Characteristics of Honey Comb:

• The surface of honey comb fabric is very rough.


• In the repeat size, number of ends and picks may be equal or unequal.


• Ordinary honey comb is produced by pointed draft and Brighton honey comb is produced by straight draft.


• Weaves forms hollows which give a cell like appearance to the texture.


• If repeat size is square then ultimate raised and sunk diamond shaped areas are seen.


• Large honey comb weaves are liable to be loose in structure when constructed in ordinary manner. To secure the firmness of texture a double row of binding is used.


• This structure has high water absorbency property.


• For Brighton honey comb, the number of threads in repeat should be multiple of 4.


• The smallest repeat size for ordinary honey comb is 6 x 4.


• The smallest repeat for Brighton honey comb is 8 x 8.

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

So, that’s all the features of honey comb.

Fancy Weave | Features Of Mock leno Weave | Huckaback Weave

Mock leno and huckaback are two important fancy weave. Both weaves are used to produce towel. The structure of both weaves is rough. Here, I have written about the features of mock leno and huckaback weave.

Features Of Mock leno Weave: The features of mock leno weaves are given below. They are-

• The surface of the fabric is like net or perforated. So, surface is rough.


• Normally repeat size even number. Smallest repeat size is 6 x 6.


• It has the property of water absorbency. So, it can be used as towel.

Features of Huckaback Weave: The characteristics of huckaback are given below. They are-

1. The surface of the fabric is rough.


2. Normally repeat size odd number, then better structure formed.


3. It has the property of water absorbency. So, it can be used as towel.

I have written about the basic design plain weave, twill weave and sateen weave. This fancy design is more different from the basic weave. This type of weave is performed for special purpose.

Difference Between Diamond Design And Diaper Design

Diamond design and diaper design are both used to produce different decorative home textile. Special types of loom are required to produce this design. Both designs are large in size and the repeat unit is nice to see. Here, I have written about the comparison between diamond design and diaper design.

Difference between Diamond Design and Diaper Design: Diamond design and diaper design has some differences in their structure. Followings are differences between diamond and diaper design.

Diamond Design	Diaper Design
1. Point is created in diamond design.	1. No point is created in diaper design.
2. Diamond design is symmetrical about their vertical axis.	2. It is symmetrical about their diagonal axis.
3. Point draft is used for diamond design.	3. Broken or straight draft is used for diaper design.
4. It is produced based on zigzag twill.	4. It is produced based on herring bone twill.
5. If repeat size is split into two halves, both would be similar.	5. If repeat size is split into two halves, both would be opposite.

Characteristics Of Diamond Design || Diaper Design

Diamond and diaper designs are the two most important twill derivatives. Diamond and diaper designs are used for producing attractive and decorative designed fabrics. Here, I have written about the features of diamond and diaper design.

Characteristics Of Diamond Design: The features of diamond design are given below. They are-

• By the combination of horizontal zigzag twill and vertical zigzag twill, diamond design is produced.


• Diamond design is symmetrical on both axis.


• Diamond design is produced by point drafting system.


• The repeat size of warp and weft are equal.


• Dobby loom is generally referred because of large number of ends in the repeat.


• Diamond design is used to produce towel, bed cover, table cover, pillow cover etc.

Characteristics Of Diaper Design: The characteristics of diaper design are given below. They are-

1. By the combination of horizontal and vertical herring bone, diaper design is produced.


2. Diaper design is produced by broken draft or straight draft.


3. The repeat size of warp and weft are equal.


4. Diaper design is used to produce towel, bed cover, table cover, pillow cover etc.

So, that’s all about diamond and diaper design.

Features Of Herring Bone Design || Types Of Herring Bone Design

Herring bone design is one of the derivatives of twill weave.

Features Of Herring Bone Design: The characteristics of herring bone design are given below. They are-

• This twill shows an appearance of Herring Bone.


• It has the similarity with the zigzag twill up to half of the repeat, but while changing the direction the interlacement becomes quite opposite to that of the zigzag twill.


• Straight draft is used for producing herring bone design.


• Herring bone design is used for producing suiting, over coating and ornamented fabrics.

Types of Herring Bone Design: Herring bone designs are two types. They are as-

1. Horizontal herring bone


2. Vertical herring bone

So, from the above two design, compare this two weave structure.

Characteristics Of Zigzag Twill | Regular Zigzag | Irregular Zigzag Twill

Zigzag twill is the most important derivatives of twill weave. Various types of ornamented design are done by this type of twill. Here, I have written about the features of zigzag twill.

Characteristics Of Zigzag Twill: Characteristics of zigzag twill is given below.

1. By the reversing of the direction of the twill at suitable intervals, zigzag twill is produced.


2. Sometimes it is referred to as Pointed Twill because a point is created in reversing point.


3. Zigzag twill is used for producing shirt, pant, figured or ornamented design, Upholstery, Wall covering and many more weave.

Classification of Zigzag Twill: Zigzag twill is classified into following two ways. They are-

1. Horizontal zigzag twill


2. Vertical zigzag twill

Features of Horizontal Zigzag Twill:

• In the repeat, the number of warp yarn is doubled to the number of weft yarn.


• Horizontal zigzag design is done by Point draft.

Features of Vertical Zigzag Twill:

• In the repeat, the number of weft yarn is doubled to the number of warp yarn.


• Straight draft is used for this weave.

That’s all about the characteristics of zigzag twill.

Features Of Matt Weave | Regular Matt | Irregular Matt | Stitched Matt | Fancy Matt

We know plain weave has three derivatives; they are warp rib, weft rib and matt rib. Matt weave fabric has a flexible and smooth surface than plain weave.

Features of Matt Weave: Features of matt weaves are given below.

1. Matt weave is heavier than a square fabric made from the same yarn, but thickness will be same.


2. The matt weave cloth has a greater resistance to tearing. Partly, because it has more threads per inch, but chiefly because the threads are in pairs.


3. Matt weaves tend to give smooth surface and more flexible fabrics than plain weave.

Matt rib is classified into four categories. They are-

1. Regular Matt


2. Irregular Matt


3. Stitched Matt


4. Fancy Matt

Here, I like to present the features of above Matt weave.

Features Of Regular Matt Weave:

• Warp and weft are shown in the form of small equal sized squares or rectangles.


• In this weave, warp and weft show themselves equally on the surface of both sides of the cloth.

Features Of Irregular Matt Weave:

• This weave produces unequal spaces in the cloth.

Features Of Stitched Matt Weave:

• Stitch is used in this weave to avoid looseness of yarn in the fabric.

Features Of Fancy Matt Weave:

• Usually, it is produced by combining matt, warp and weft ribs.

So, that’s all about the features of matt weave and its derivatives.

Sateen Weave | Properties Of Sateen Weave | Types Of Sateen Weave

Sateen weave is the third basic weave among all of the basic weave or design. It is not as used as plain or twill weave. It is used for special purpose. Generally lace is produced by this sateen weave. There are other types of sateen weave that is satin, its properties are also same as sateen weave but there have some difference in the structure. Let, see the properties of sateen weave.

Properties of Sateen Weave: The main characteristics of sateen weave are given below. They are-

• The main characteristics of sateen weave is that; the face side of the fabric is very smooth and glossy.


• Only one interlacement is happened between each warp and each weft, for this reason, it is very glossy.


• In sateen weave, no twill direction is formed on the fabric surface.


• Sateen weave is comparatively looser structure than plain and twill weave.


• Sateen weave is mostly used for lace production.

Types of Sateen Weave: Sateen weaves are two types. They are-

1. Warp Sateen: If the float of warp yarn is more in the face side then it is called warp sateen. I.e. 5/1 warp sateen, it is also called 5 ends sateen.

1. Weft Sateen: If the float of weft yarn is more in the face side of fabric, then it is called weft sateen. I.e. 1/5 sateen weave.

So, that’s all about sateen weave and its classification.

Factors Affecting The Prominence Of Twill Weave

Twill weave produces diagonal lines on the face and back of the fabric. For this reason, its structure is not so comfort as plain weave. The prominence of the twill fabric is one of the important factors.

Factors Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave: There have some factors which affects the prominence of twill weave. They are as:

Character of Weave: Characteristics of weave affects the prominence of the twill fabric greatly. Twill lines of short float create less prominence of twill line and twill line of long float creates more prominence of twill line, weaker fabric, create looseness.

Characteristics of Yarn: Prominence of twill weave depends on yarn type. Twill line of single yarn causes less prominence. Twill lines of folded or ply yarn causes more prominence. Twill weave becomes less prominence for same direction of twist and twill line, also for finer and hard twisted yarn. On the other hand, opposite direction of twist and twill line and coarser and soft twisted yarn increase the prominence of twill weave.

Number of Ends and Picks per Inch: EPI and PPI greatly affects on the prominence of twill weave. More EPI and PPI create more prominence of twill weave and Less EPI and PPI causes less prominence of woven structure.

So, from the above we see that, the prominence of twill weave depends on the characteristics of weave, characteristics of yarn as well as the number of EPI and PPI of woven twill fabric.

What Is Twill Weave? || Properties Of Twill Weave

Twill Weave: Twill weave is the second major design after plain weave. A weave that repeats on three or more picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric is called Twill Weave. Twill weave also can be defined as “The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be formed on the cloth”. Twill weave has some derivatives by which various types of decorative woven fabric are produced.



Properties of Twill Weave: Twill weave has some features. Properties of twill weave are given below.

• Diagonal ribs or cords are seen on the twill fabric.


• These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end and by one pick relatives to that of the previous end.


• In the both sides of the fabric, twill lines are formed.


• It takes minimum 3 ends and 3 picks relative to that of the previous one. The smallest repeat is 3 X 3.


• Straight draft is commonly used for producing twill weave.


• It required three or more heald shaft for producing the design.


• Diagonal lines can be formed right to left or left to right.


• Due to closer setting of yarn, it produces greater weight than woven fabric.


• Depending on the direction of twill lines on the face of the cloth, twills are classified as Z twill and S twill.

So, there are lots of characteristics of twill weave. I have written about the properties of plain weave. If you compare between this two weave, you will find the difference between the twill and plain weave.

Features Of Divided Draft || Combined Draft

Divided draft and combined draft are two important drafting systems. This two drafting system is not so used as straight, skip, point, broken, grouped or curved draft. Here, I have given the features of divided and combined draft.

Features of Divided Draft: The features of divided draft are given below:

• Shafts are divided into two or more groups.


• A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.


• Divided drafts are employed for Divided weaves, Double warp weaves, and Two Ply weaves, Pile weaves and some others.

Features of Combined Draft: Combined draft has some characteristics, which is given below.

1. When two or more drafts are combined in one draft for producing a certain type of fabric, then it is known as Combined Draft.


2. Combined draft is a complicated draft.


3. It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical reasons.


4. For doing this design a designer should have great knowledge about the drafting plan.

That’s all about the characteristics of grouped draft and combined draft.

Characteristics Of Grouped Draft || Curved Draft

Grouped draft is generally used for produce check or stripe design of the woven fabric. Curved draft is used for producing fancy design with a large repeat unit.

Characteristics Of Grouped Draft: The characteristics of grouped draft are given below.

1. Check and stripe designs are produced by grouped draft.


2. The repeat of draft is determined by the number of stripes and the number of threads in each stripe.


3. The number of shaft in the draft depends on the number of stripes and warp repeat of weave of each repeat.

Characteristics Of Curved Draft: The characteristics of curved draft are given below.

• Curved draft is applied for Fancy weaves having a large warp repeat.


• It is used to reduce the number of heald shafts in a repeat.


• Curved drafts are irregular and cannot be classified.


• The maximum number of shafts equals the number of threads in warp repeat with different order of interlacing.

So, that’s all about grouped draft and curved draft.

Properties Of Point Draft or V-Draft || Broken Draft

Point draft or V-Draft and broken draft are the two important drafting system of woven design. Various types of critical drafting plan are done by this two.

Properties of Point Draft or V-Draft: The properties of point draft or V-draft are given below.

• Point draft is used for woven structures which are symmetrical about the centre and they are frequently employed to produce diamond effect.


• It is used where the straight draft cannot be applied because of large repeat.


• The point draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts, constructed firstly in one direction and then on other.


• The change in direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft which are the point of reversal.


• The first and last shafts carry only one end each whilst all the heald shafts in the middle carry two ends per repeat of the draft.


• So, the number of ends per repeat of the design is calculated as = (2 x Number of heald shaft) – 2.

Properties Of Broken Draft: The properties of broken draft are given below. They are as follow:

1. Broken draft can be considered as a modified Point draft.


2. This is a combination of straight drafts with different directions of construction.


3. But the direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft. When the direction is reversed, the first thread of the next group is started higher or lowers than the last thread of proceeding group.


4. Herring Bone Twills, Diaper design and some other weave is produced by applying this broken draft.

So, that’s all about point draft and broken draft.

Features Of Straight Draft || Skip Draft

Straight draft and skip draft is the most used drafting system to express drafting plan of woven structure.

Features of Straight Draft: The features of straight draft are given below.

1. Straight draft is the simplest type of draft that forms basis from many other drafts.


2. Straight draft is the most common and can be used with any number of heald shafts.


3. Each successive thread is drawn on each successive shaft. The first thread on the first shaft, the second on the second shaft and so on. The last thread of the warp repeat is drawn in the last shaft.


4. The number of heald shafts equal to the number of warp in the repeat.

Features of Skip Draft: The features of skip draft are given below.

• Skip draft is used in weaving in the fabric with a high density of warp threads having same structure.


• In this drafting system, 2, 4 or 6 heald shafts are used.


• This enables to decrease the density of heald on each shaft and to reduce the friction of threads against thread and thread against heald.


• Skip draft is used in plain weave.

So, that’s all about the properties of straight draft and skips draft.

Drafting Plan || Methods Of Indicating Of Drafting Plan || Systems Of Drafting

Drafting plan is the major parts of a complete design for a woven fabric. The number of heald shafts used to produce a design is indicated by drafting plan.

Methods of Indicating of Drafting Plan: Drafting plan can be expressed by various ways. Drafting plan can be indicated by the following methods. They are:

1. By Ruling Line


2. By The Use Of Design Paper


3. By Numbering

Ruling Line Method: Ruling line is a method of indicating draft, in which the horizontal lines represent the healds and the vertical lines indicate the warp threads. The marks on the line indicate the healds upon which the respective threads are drawn. Ruling line methods are not so used methods of indicating drafting plan.

Design Paper Method: Design paper method is the best way to express drafting plan of a woven fabric. This is the method in which the horizontal spaces represent the healds and the vertical spaces represent warp threads. Marks are inserted upon the small squires.



Numbering Method: This is a method which refers to the number of threads. In this case, the threads are successively drawn on the healds in order indicating the number.

Systems of Drafting: Drafting is done as the following way.

1. Straight Draft


2. Point Draft


3. Skip Draft


4. Broken Draft


5. Grouped Draft


6. Curved Draft


7. Divided Draft


8. Combined Draft

These are the systems of drafting. I will write details in the next.

Fancy Weave || Types Of Fancy Weave || Uses Of Fancy Design

Fancy weave is the most important weave structure. Various types of decorative products are produced by this weave design. Its weave structure is critical one than basic weave structure. We know that, basic structures are plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. It will be clear when I will give details of the fancy weave.

Types of Fancy Weave: Followings are the fancy weave.

1. Mock Leno


2. Hucka Back


3. Crepe Weave


4. Honey Comb


5. Bed Ford Cord, and


6. Pique

Uses of Fancy Weave: Following products are produced by the various fancy designs:

• Towel


• Home Furnishing


• Ladies Wear


• Trouser


• Trimmings


• Ornamental Purpose


• ETC

So, there lots of products are produced by this weave. Special types of loom are used for doing this design.